Bob and Heather's Paris Newsletter, July 28, 2006

I'm just realizing what a long time has passed since our last newsletter at the end of January - 5 1/2 months seems like an eternity and we've done so many things since. Sitting in a stifling European heat wave, it's hard to think back to the Chinese New Year parade of January 29 and the long cold winter. Cold of course is relative, since I was able to ride my bike to work all winter; but the humidity at times made -2 here seem more like -20 in the dry winters of Ottawa.

Since back then, I've been to London, Washington, Maastricht (twice), Bratislava and Vienna, Italy, and several times to Brussels, and we've received a number of Canadian visitors with whom we've been able to share our Paris experiences directly, rather than via the keyboard.

In London (Feb.1-6), I participated in an International Alert workshop on project finance and conflict risks, which explored the need to include human rights factors in the risk analysis of projects and their interaction with people in affected communities. Having been exposed to criticisms resulting from gross abuses caused by pipelines, dams, paper mills, mines, power plants, etc., some companies are looking at the need to at least give lip-service to consultation and participation by communities prior to construction; and the banks and export credit agencies that lend them the money to finance projects are being slowly dragged into these debates and struggles. Heather came with me and we were able to spend a few days sightseeing in London after the workshop.

In Washington (Feb.15-19), I met with my American colleagues and NGOs in our network and attended a World Resources Institute workshop on export credit agencies (ECAs) and development finance; a good opportunity to listen in to this debate on the role of the Export Import Bank as a facilitator of American jobs, American corporate welfare and latterly, a potential facilitator of sustainable development - if certain reforms could be generated.

Following a brief visit (dinner) with John Foster who was in Paris for the "innovative finance for development" conference sponsored by the French government, we were off to the Maastricht Carnival and a weekend (February 25-28) with our friends the Basers. Anyone not participating in the carnival parades seemed to be out in the streets watching. Early in March we were also able to feed and visit with Paul and Jim from Ottawa, as they passed through Paris on their way to Maastricht and Greece. We attended a WICE current events forum on March 7th at which the topic was the work of the OECD. After a brief "critical" comment from me, I was invited to be their next lecturer and subsequently led a lively discussion on international finance and the environment on June 13th.

Also in March, we watched the 350,000 strong demonstration on March 18th against the French government's proposal to legislate incentives to give young people 2 year first job contracts (CPE) with no reason needed to dismiss them after the 2 years are up. The government was eventually forced to retract this response to the suburban unrest of last November and there were interesting articles in the press comparing the middle class university student demonstrations with the unemployed "immigrant" youths' car burnings. It would be an understatement to say that the French political elite are not very close to pretty large parts of their "constituencies".

In March, Allison visited for a week and Heather enjoyed showing her the sights. I "had to" leave the weekend before she left to attend a UNEP workshop in Vienna, to which I travelled via Bratislava, Slovakia, which is only 70 km. from Vienna but offers quite cheap airfares from Paris. I spent a day and a half visiting this old centre of the Austro-Hungarian empire and latterly capital of one segment of ex-Yugoslavia and an "emerging" Eastern European member of the Community. Quite fascinating. I was treated to a tour of the city and lunch by a bio-physics professor and his French-speaking Russian wife, whom I met on the bus from the airport to the city. A very heartening hospitality that is pretty rare these days.

The Vienna workshop was enlightening but very frustrating. There were clear limits to the willingness of export credit agencies (ECAs) to get involved in a discussion of the environmental impacts of the projects they finance. The gap was obvious between NGO experiences of these projects via the communities affected by them, and the abstract / mechanistic / economistic approach of even the more sympathetic staff of ECAs, who seem to believe there are formulae for mitigating against the "external" costs created by projects which displace communities, dump toxic effluents and gases in their midst and deprive them of traditional livelihoods without any or largely inadequate compensation, retraining, relocation, etc.

On April 7th, my brother-in-law Rick arrived to run in the April 9th Paris marathon. My trip to the airport to meet him made for an eventful morning. On coming out of the airport train station and through a turnstile, an attractive middle-aged woman jumped into the turnstile with me and provocatively pressed her breast against my shoulder. "Est-ce que je peux passer avec vous monsieur" she whispered as she pushed her thigh between my legs. Before I could even absorb what was happening, we were through and out the other side, where her husband stood with their luggage, grinning sheepishly at this brazen exchange of a free ride to the airport for a quick grope. A few minutes later, I was waiting for the bus to Terminal 2 with a Cameroonian bishop on his way to a pilgrimage in Jerusalem, discussing the morning papers' stories about the Gospel according to Judas just published by the National Geographic Society. On our way back into Paris Nord, our train was stopped for 15 minutes by about 10 youth who lay down on the tracks at Le Bourget station to disrupt traffic in protest at the CPE job legislation.

Rick finished the marathon with great grace (if not speed) for a fellow accompanier into our 7th decades, and my sister Maureen arrived on the 12th for 10 day visit, which included not only Paris, but a day in Brussels thanks to a lucky Thalys cheap train ticket raffle. Unfortunately I lost my passport there, leading to interminable hassles with, not only the Canadian Embassy in getting a replacement passport, but also with the Paris Prefecture in getting a replacement resident's permit, yet to come. We got along well with 4 people in our tiny apartment for 10 days, proving that good family relations can make over-crowding not only bearable but even pleasant.

We managed to get our income tax returns done by the end of April and while Canada seems happy with both of us, I'm still waiting to see what happens when I get my French return back in August with a bill for the "damages". They have a very different way of doing it here, and while all the rules, regulations, forms and bureaucracy are pretty similar to those in Canada, because of unfamiliarity, they can be a lot more intimidating. We also survived some minor renovations to our apartment, mainly new tile flooring in front of the kitchen sink to replace the water damaged parquet flooring caused by a previous tenant.

We met some fair trade producers at an event on the St. Martin Canal near us in May during Fair Trade Week, and spent an extremely pleasant weekend at our friends Michelle and Daniel's country house in Loches-sur-Ource south of Troyes. I attended the OECD Forum May 22-23 and hosted network colleagues in our strategic planning meetings in conjunction with a consultation with the export credit Secretariat of the OECD on May 29th. They are reviewing their environmental standards and procedures for ECA support this year (the so-called Common Approaches) and we are pressing for major improvements in transparency, monitoring and compliance, meeting new international best practices/standards and pre-project consultation with affected communities. They are obviously listening to us because of the embarrassments and reputational risks they regularly face, but it's a long and roller-coaster like engagement. We're currently waiting to hear how they respond to some very concrete language we recommended they include in the new standards prior to the next consultation which we hope will be in September. In the interim, I'm busy uncovering incredible carelessness in their statistical data, which make a mockery of their claim to be monitoring the impact of their projects, and constantly reminding them in our monthly newsletter and otherwise, of the extent to which their policies fail to reduce the harm caused to real people.

Pam visited us for a few days early in June, prior to spending a couple of weeks in Italy with her mother, and then again for a few days on her way back to Canada. She has Canadian friends living in Paris now, as well as all the acquaintenances and friends she invariably makes everywhere she goes, but we managed to squeeze in a few outings together and reconnecting after her year studying comedy writing in Toronto.

Heather's tennis friend Jean, from Ottawa, spend a week with us in June. I had one hectic week at the end of June juggling meetings with French ministries and a visiting group of indigenous and environmental representatives from New Caledonia trying to force a renegotiation of financing for an atrocious and damaging Inco nickel mine there, a major meeting with the European Commission on ECAs and Sustainable Development in Brussels and then a press conference a few hours before leaving for an ECA Europe planning meeting north of Rome.

We had planned to spend a day in Rome while in Italy for a week, but it was so hot that we opted to remain in the small hill towns in Lazio about 50 km north of Rome. We had a rented car and really enjoyed the scenery, old villages, good food and a general lack of having to "do" or "see" anything in particular. Italy definitely is a special place, where at least some of the population have opted to enjoy life without succumbing to "progress".

In early July we spent a weekend with the Basers in Maastricht belatedly celebrating Bob's 60th birthday and their farewell party for their friends, colleagues and neighbours. They return to Canada in August after 5 1/2 yeasrs in Europe, although Heather will continue working with ECDPM for a while yet.

On the eve of Bastille Day (July 14), we danced at the Pompiers (Firemans') Ball down at the canal, a great annual community party. I didn't get to see the big military parade as I had a meeting in Brussles, but I wasn't too disappointed. Two weeks ago we walked all the way across Paris (13 km) with Francoise for a swim and to attend a piano concert at the Orangerie de Sceaux. I didn't get to swim because of a ridiculous French prohibition of bathing suits that look like shorts. Last weekend we went for a walk in La Courneuve Park, a wonderful space in the suburbs where the car burnings took place last November.

My work is going well and I'm getting more and more conversant with all the technical and political elements of export credits. Our funding for 2007 isn't assured yet so there's a bit of uncertainty about how much longer we'll be here.

All for now. Over to Heather.

Bob

Boujour tous le monde, I can't believe that I had my portion of our newsletter ready before Bob, and had to wait for him to complete his portion. I have not edited what I wrote at the end of May below, but I've added an update to my activities.

It's time for me to get cracking on my portion of our newsletter before the start of Roland Garros and visitors start arriving again in June.

I start this newsletter at the time of the Chinese New Year, January 29th, "year of the dog", which happens to be my sign for this year.

To celebrate, Bob and I and our friend Jan went to see the Chinese parade in the Marais, then went to China Town to wander around and have an early dinner.

You've heard the expression "back cover first" - if not I just coined it. Remember last November when I told you of my experience in participating in a 20 second video and poster for Amis de la Terre France. Well the poster hit the press on April 13 in a weekly called "Politis". [picture here] It didn't make the front cover, but did make the back cover. I am now waiting to see the poster in a metro station. (I won't hold my breath waiting for that). Last week I did my first French "on the street" radio interview with a local radio station. I was approached by the interviewer as I was looking at a photo exhibit on Blvd Pasteur. She asked me a few questions, like did I like the exhibit, where did I live and what did I like about Paris? Simple stuff in English, but in French!? Anyway I tried, and I did make her laugh. I also "won" the Roland Garros ticket lottery. I got tickets for 4 days in the first week and will be going with Jan and some of her friends from Toronto. Maybe I'll run into Daniel Nestor's wife again.

My granddaughter Alexis was a year old on May 7. I called and sang her happy birthday (no Grammy award for that). In addition my nephew Todd and his wife Orly had a baby boy, Alexander.

We've had visitors too. Allison Fader was here for a week in April and we had great fun as well as visiting and walking around Paris. We also visited Fontainebleau, where Allison lived from age 9 to 12.

As Bob has already mentioned, his sister Maureen and brother-in-law Rick were here at Easter and I got to do a few new things: night boat cruise on the Seine, Versailles, witnessing a film crew doing a movie about Edith Piaf and cooking fresh artichokes.

Pam will be here in June and I am looking forward to that. I was as green as grass about Paris the last time she was here, so I am anxious to show her what I've learned. Later in June my friend Jean Howell from Ottawa will be here for a week, so I will have another opportunity to be a tour guide.

My volunteer work at the Resto du Cour food bank continues each week on Tuesday mornings. They've moved a little further away but it is still only a fifteen minute walk. We have most of our regular clients back, but have gained a few new ones as well.

We have had two visits, one to London in February, which enabled me to spend a full day at the Victoria and Albert Museum (the British Galleries) and have coffee at Harrods. Together Bob and I visited the Royal Academy "The Three Emperors" exhibit, The Wallace Collection, and the Docklands Museum. We also had the best Indian food. We visited the Basers in late February for Maastrict's annual Carnival. It was a real colourful parade with lots of bands and almost everyone in costume. I think that half of Maastrict was in the parade and the other half were watching it.

I still try to get out with my group on Wednesdays for our Ile de France hikes. A few times it was just too cold, so a few of us did something in Paris. I should be keeping track of the kilometres I'm walking. I have lost a few pounds and inches too, so I'm not complaining.

My art history lectures, exhibitions and walking tours with WICE continue right into the end of June. Our course instructor, Chris Boicos, is just superb. He makes the history so easy to understand and I seem to be signing up for more and more. Some of the lecture titles/exhibitions were: Paris in the Belle-Époque: 1872-1918; Cézanne and Pissarro, 1865-1885 at the Musee d'Orsay (showed a comparison of their works during this period); Pierre Bonnnard at the Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris; Douanier Rousseau exhibition of "jungle paintings" at the Grand Palais; "L'Aventura" Italian modern art 1910-1950 also at the Grand Palais; Women in Art: Venus, the Maiden, the Wife; and Picasso's Women (the influence they had on his paintings, drawings and sculptures).

In addition, I go to other museum exhibits that catch my eye, like the Musee Rodin, Musee Bourdelle (another sculptor), Les Egouts (Sewer Museum), Catacombs, Musee de l'Erotisme (self explanatory), Bijou exhibit at the Musee Carnavalet, Paris as seen in the cinema at the Hotel de Ville, and a photo exhibit of the Seine at the Conciegerie.

I even get to do housework, washing and ironing on occasion. I still enjoy the markets and wine caves. I seem to find more and more of them in Paris as time goes by.

On a personal note, I hope we can stay in Paris for one more year, but if I had to leave tomorrow, I would not be disappointed at what I have done already and seen. I just want more.

Love to all

Heather

Update (June-July)

Rolland Garros was great, but no box seats to sit in. I did see and talk to Daniel Nestor, but my ticket days did not allow me to see him play. Maybe in October at the Paris Masters. Resto du Cour has closed for the summer and will reopen in September.

I love being a tour guide and my friend Jean was a willing participant. I keep adding things to see and do that I would like to share with a friend. Colleen and Dave are coming in October, any other takers?

I really enjoyed our Italian outing in the historic hill towns north of Rome. My weekly Ile de France hikes have all but stopped for the summer, but that has not stopped me exploring more of "undiscovered Paris". On one such outing, I was approached to do an interview for the City's news magazine. I did it in French, and they took a couple of pictures so who knows what's next. In addition our poster was published in another magazine, and this time it was on glossy paper (getting closer to that metro poster).

My art lectures ended in June, but I have seen a few good exhibits as well as my first ballet. The Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre performed outdoors at the National Archives building last week, and I went with Francoise,a neighbour. If you did not already know, it is a renowned black dance troupe from the USA.

There is a new museum in Paris, the Musee du Quai Branly featuring non-European art (mainly African). It is located next to the Eiffel Tower. I tried to get in opening day, but to no avail (3 hour line up). I did manage to get a copy of their glossy catalogue and will go back in August or September with Bob. I did get into the newly renovated "Musee de l'Orangerie" at Jardin des Tuileries. It houses one of Monet's enormous compositions as well as Cézanne, Renoir, etc. It is a beautiful building. Bob and I went to an exhibit on Peruvian culture before the Incas at the Petit Palais. Bob was very helpful in explaining the history to me. The latest exhibit I went to was by Cindy Sherman, an American photographer at the Jeue de Paume.

The parks and promenades still fascinate me and I love bringing a lunch and just sitting and soaking up the atmosphere. Talk about soaking up the sun, the Paris Plage opened last week to very hot weather and lots of people to enjoy it. Another hot day found me in a quaint park with a working water fountain, so I made like a kid and waded in. It was nice and cool and clean, a little 3 year old joined me for the fun.

Almost forgot, during Paris' annual spring sales, I did indulge in a few things, as well as getting a few new dresses for Alexis.

That's it folks, take care and keep the emails coming.

Heather

P.S. You can still read all our previous newsletters at http://www.web.ca/~bthomson/newsletters_index.html
There are also extra photos for this newsletter at
http://www.web.net/~bthomson/paris_photos/newsletters/photos/newsletter5_photos.html